The Wild Wild East: December 2006

Monday, December 25, 2006

Chinese Belize

For those of you who have been asking, I know I haven't posted in a while and I'm sorry. I've been in the midst of travels (coming back from China, spending some time with my cousin in the Caribbean, trying to take a smog-free deep breath on my vacation). For those of you who don't really care, sorry for the long intro - I'll try to get on with it.

I know I am no longer living in Laiwu, but I think I may keep the title "Laowai In Laiwu" for the time being, unless someone else manages to come up with something better for Beijing or something comes to me in a dream. At that point you just have to admit that a higher power dictates and make the title change, right? (Though somehow I think the powers that be have more important things to do...) But for those of you who are asking, despite my not being in Laiwu, I will continue the blog and for the sake of ease, it will remain at the same web address.

Now onto the good stuff:
As I mentioned earlier, I spent some time in the Caribbean with my cousin, just taking in the sunshine as well as a few ports of call. Belize City, as we would come to find out, is not a particularly stable nor a particularly safe place to walk around - especially for two twenty-something females. We were advised by our good friend and rock climbing belay support, Peter, to try an excursion into the jungle or to the beaches and to avoid the "city" part of Belize City. The only hitch was that to get to the jungle, you have to cut through the city one way or another. Our way involved a tour-guided hour-long bus ride. Our hiking leader/tour guide, Raymond, narrated the history of the city as we drove, pointing out the highlights along the way. By twenty minutes in, I had sort of tuned Raymond out and was just staring out the window, enjoying my time off.

Out of the blue, it all came rushing back. I saw a sign with Chinese characters on it. That's strange, I thought. Then I saw a second. And a third. It was unbelievable - here I take the good time and money to fly thousands upon thousands of miles away from China and it manages to follow me all the way to Central America. I decided to ask Raymond about it. Well here, it turns out Belize has a HUGE Chinese community (actually, more specifically Chinese and Taiwanese community - which, depending on your political convictions, may or may not be one and the same). They dominate - of all things - the Belizean fast food industry. They are the "McDonald's",''KFC," and "Beijing Express Take-Out" of Central America. Raymond went on to explain that the Indian community (from India, not the Native Americans) dominated textiles and the only viable industry left to native Belizeans (?) was tourism.

Apparently, as recently as the last five years, there has been a major influx of Asian emigration and investment into Central and South America. I know I mentioned in an earlier post the current Chinese influence in Africa. Well it's spreading globally. Like a virus. I'm thinking Ebola. Take my advice: learn Chinese and quickly - it may be your best shot when the smoke clears. Just kidding. But even if I'm not, I speak Chinese so at least I'm in the clear...

posted by Rachel @ 9:54 AM

Showdown At The OK Corral

And by showdown, I mean assault and attempted battery. And by OK Corral, I mean a toll booth somewhere in Shandong Province. Here's the setup: I was being driven to the Jinan airport from Laiwu - reclining in the back seat, iPod at near-full volume, trying to stay relaxed before the sixteen-hour flight home. After what seemed like ages, it slowly dawned on me that we'd been sitting in the same spot for quite some time - which was especially strange considering that we were on an expressway. I snuck a peek out the window and saw that we were waiting at one of the expressway tollbooths.

Now, I know I have written about the frequent inefficiencies of Chinese systems, companies, and government organizations and it can sometimes take a while for the Chinese to get mobilized, but we had literally been sitting motionless (aside from the humming of the car engine) for about twelve minutes. If you think about sitting still in a car - or anywhere for that matter - for twelve full minutes, it really is a long time to have not moved so much as an inch.

I decided to sneak a peek out the driver's side window and managed to get a glimpse of a small bus two cars ahead of ours, parked next to the toll booth with two men OUTSIDE the bus, talking to the booth attendant. Suddenly, as if from nowhere, one of the guys flew into a rage, started pounding on the toll booth window (which, luckily, is made of plastic not glass) with his fist, and from what I could understand, began yelling obscenities at the woman in the booth. Since I was sitting two or three cars back, I could take in the whole picture of the toll booth security slowly descending on the guy from five different directions, SWAT style. I didn't know toll booths needed such heavy security, but I guess they have it specifically for instances such as this. The booth attendant (who was a tiny little twenty-something girl, by the way) was trying desperately - with both hands even - to hold her booth window closed as this enraged Chinese man tried to slide it open or smash it open, whichever he could accomplish first. Behind the angry man stood a posse of two other not-quite-as-angry (but still riled up) Chinese men. Honestly, I didn't realize that such heated disputes could arise from paying, like, a dollar-fifty to drive on a toll road. But, if nothing else, the guys had spunk.

Cars in front of and behind us began honking in frustration, as about fifteen or twenty minutes had passed by this point - and with no sign of progress and no way of getting into another toll booth line. The security guards - who were tiny little sticks with legs and looked like they'd be lucky to win a fight with a firefly - began yelling at the angriest of the bunch to back away from the nice booth attendant lady. I didn't even see weapons or anything, just walkie-talkies. Somehow, their walkie-talkies must've conveyed some sort of authority and finally, in a huff, Angry Man and his friends returned to their bus and drove off. I have no idea how or if the problem was resolved.

They seriously need reality TV in China. In the US, reality shows are about eating worms and living on desert islands. But Chinese reality could be TV entertainment all on its own.

posted by Rachel @ 8:45 AM

Thursday, December 14, 2006

A Gray Christmas

That's what you get when you're living in a steel town. Pollution isn't an issue just in Laiwu - most of the major cities, especially those along the north and east of the country, are plagued by car exhaust and manufacturing fumes. But I was thinking about this mostly because I was walking to work this morning and saw a pint-sized fake Christmas tree adorned in red tinsel being suffocated by smog. As sad a sight as that was, I was more surprised to see a Christmas tree at all. Most people here don't really understand what Christmas celebrates and represents. The concept of Jesus as a religious figure doesn't really exist in their culture and I have not yet come across a Chinese Christian.

But there is interest in learning about our holiday traditions. At least three times a day, I am asked how I celebrate Christmas. Upon telling them that I'm Jewish and don't actually celebrate Christmas, they then ask me what I do celebrate. Try to imagine a Chinese person pronouncing the word "Chanukah." Really, try it. It's that first throaty "ch" that gets them. But to be fair, half the population of the United States can't pronounce it properly either. People are mystified by the concept of Judaism here. There's a certain ignorance about the religion, its beliefs, and its origins. It's not a Mel Gibson-type ignorance. In fact, to the contrary: the one consistent response I've received to telling people I'm Jewish is "Oh, Jewish people are all really smart - you must be so smart." Isn't that fantastic? Over three billion people think we're geniuses. Take that, Iran.

Still, despite not understanding much about Judaeo-Christian beliefs and holidays, I have seen Christmas trees, Chinese character ornaments, and twinkle light decorations in Laiwu. Now all they need is a red dragon Menorah and the holiday season in Laiwu will be complete.

posted by Rachel @ 11:38 AM

Monday, December 11, 2006

"I Was Married By A Judge. I Should Have Asked For A Jury."

- Groucho Marx

But seriously, folks. Have you heard the one about the Irish Setter that walks into a gynecologist's office? He says Doc, I think there's something wrong with my... Okay, I'm getting off-color and off-topic at the same time. Getting back on track with my story, I went to a Chinese wedding this weekend. Correction: I went to a Chinese wedding party this weekend. Since the wedding is in a small town like Laiwu, it's usually a small affair with a limited audience. The party, however, is another story altogether.

About a month or so ago, a woman came into our office with large red envelopes. I had never seen her before, but she definitely worked for Laiwu Steel - she was wearing the standard uniform and my colleagues seemed well-acquainted with her. She was inviting the entire danwei to celebrate her wedding. Considering how many people that includes, I figured these must be very generous people. They even invited me, which was especially nice since neither she nor her fiancee had ever met me before. Who am I to complain? I'm a guest of honor around here. Yet another perk I will lose upon my return to Beijing...

Anyway, the time flew by and on Friday one of my co-workers called to remind me that she would meet me at my hotel to walk over to the reception. She arrived that morning around 11:30, and we proceeded to walk over to a restaurant about two and a half blocks away. Upon entering the restaurant's ground floor, we were greeted by two fuwuyuan, the bride and groom, and their parents. The bride was dressed in a red traditional Chinese pants-suit since the wedding had already taken place the day before. At the hotel I live in, I've seen many post-wedding celebrations taking place at the hotel restaurant. Though the bridal shop in Laiwu has many red dresses, all the brides I have seen thus far have been wearing white. But red is still the color of luck, hence the red suit.

The fuwuyuan directed us up the spiral staircase and at the top of the stairs we were pointed toward several private rooms with open doors and tables with festive decorations. I recognized several managers from my building and went in to say hello. We were exchanging pleasantries when a colleague, Zheng Yanr, told me that we would be in a room a couple doors over. I went in with her and sat down. Zheng Yanr and I had been the first to arrive. On the table in front of us lay plates of cookies, crackers, sunflower seeds, pine nuts, candies, cigarettes, and Chinese appetizers of sorts.

As the guests began to file in, I realized that all the guests in this room were women. And it turns out they were all women I knew from work. Duan Jia, from the office next door, commented that at least there would be no heavy smoking and drinking. Everyone nodded in agreement as did I. All those evenings of going out to dinner, drinking more baijiu than anyone ever should, and inhaling more secondhand smoke than oxygen were all instances in which the majority of my dinner companions was male. I knew an all-female meal would be more relaxing and probably better for my overall health and well-being too.

It was a very pleasant lunch and everyone enjoyed the delicacies that were served. Fine quality meats and additives can be expensive, so the women relished the opportunity to have a meal of such high caliber. They use a lot of pork, so a good number of dishes were off limits to me but, even in spite of this, I had quite a feast to pick from. About an hour into the meal, the bride and groom came into to toast with us. They poured special wine into our glasses. Even if someone's glass was already full, room had to be made for the wine from the bride and groom. Apparently, it has something to do with wishing luck to the newly married couple. About five minutes later, the groom's parents entered and did the same. Then they handed each of us a small red gift bag with the character for happiness inscribed in gold. Inside were cigarettes and candy - what a gift bag. Not exactly politically correct enough for the States, but at least they get right down to business.

But the best part: the women got to take all the food home when we were done. After weddings and celebrations of all kinds, I've seen people take home flower arrangements or decorative ornaments, but the food? Maybe it's like my friend Gang Gang says, "the Jews and the Chinese are like first cousins." After seeing them wrap up every single ounce of food and place them into giant plastic bags to take with them, I have to say - if I didn't believe that was true before, I do now.

posted by Rachel @ 3:00 PM

It's Off To Market We Go

Ever since I began this blog, people have been asking me for photos to get a real sense of what life in Laiwu is like. More will come later (if I try to put too many photos in one blog post my computer console explodes), but I was at the marketplace this morning and I tried to uninvasively take a few photos. This was the result:

This first one is actually an alleyway off the main market drag. In this area they sell only fruits, veggies, beans, and starches (the bases for noodles, breaded foods, and wrapped delicacies like jiaozi and baozi). In other words, no meathooks or crispy dead fish. In the back on the left are two lettuce trucks making a delivery. Why that much lettuce is necessary in life, I couldn't tell you. Unless you're Tony Soprano - in which case it's all about the lettuce. Okay, bad joke. Sorry, about that. I'll try to restrain myself in the future.

This is the right side of the main drag. Further to the left, there's a second "lane" with more fruit stands, slabs of meat on hooks, etc. In some places, makeshift tables or trucks hold the items but, overall, most produce and even some fish are just laid out on crates, boxes, or blankets.
Everyone seemed to enjoy the story about the very exuberant saleslady with the chicken in a bucket, so I thought I'd give you all a visual. This lady is not "overly exuberant," but I think you get the idea anyway. I was very impressed by this woman's supremely large bucket of chicken. Try to challenge that, KFC!

posted by Rachel @ 2:37 PM

Thursday, December 07, 2006

Two Roads Diverged In A Wood

And I -

I took the one to Beijing.

That's right, everyone. Starting January 1st, my blog's title of Laowai in Laiwu will be suitable no longer. I have taken a position with a Chinese-based consulting group in Beijing and will be leaving Laiwu on the 15th, most likely for good. There will be one heck of a post the week of my departure since my colleagues are already excitedly chattering about the killer-diller of a bon voyage party they're planning on throwing for me. I can only hope I will be coherent enough to make it out of Laiwu and back to Beijing. Maybe THAT's their plan: get me drunk so I can't leave. Well, I have you all figured out, so it won't work - ha HA!

Although I'll be glad for the change in social scene, I will miss being as special and unique as I am in Laiwu. Despite how negative I know things can sound sometimes, I really did meet a lot of wonderful people here and had some amazing experiences- some of which you've read about, some of which I'm saving for the book. (If I tell you everything now, what would be the selling point?)

I'll be back in Florida in less than two weeks. For those of you readers who will be there over the holidays, I look forward to seeing you (please e-mail me and let me know you'll be there if I haven't spoken with you yet). And for those of you who are or will be in Beijing anytime soon, I can't wait to meet up with you all again!

posted by Rachel @ 3:16 PM

Sunday, December 03, 2006

Emily Post Is Dead...Again

Ettiquette. Our parents try to teach us as best they can, keeping in mind of course our societally-imposed gender roles. I think my parents did alright: I send out thank-you notes for gifts, I cover my mouth when I cough, and I hold doors open for others. All in all, it's not so hard to be polite. But what happens when hundreds of years of ettiquette history just vanish?

Or more appropriately, I should say hundreds of years of the history of ettiquette never were. China is like the sinkhole of table manners. With all of the pomp and circumstance that comes with business and diplomatic presentations, one would think that the Chinese would prove expert in the area of ettiquette. But I have four months of living in China that say otherwise.

Now, this is not to say that the Chinese aren't NICE people or GOOD people. This is not a matter of warmth and this is not an insult to intelligence. Generosity and scholarliness are qualities absolutely present in every Chinese city I've been to. It is the concept of "ettiquette" a la Emily Post, or lack of it, that troubles me.

All along I have noticed little things. People looking at me strangely when I held the door open for those behind me. Cars cutting me off while I was crossing the street (in China, even if you have the official green pedestrian signal, you still don't REALLY have the "right-of-way"). Literally yelling on cell phones in every possible inappropriate place. Little kids, and not-so-little kids, using the bushes that line the sidewalks as bathrooms. But it was upon the arrival of winter weather that I was really pushed over the edge.

I was walking home one day, and a man walking not two feet in front of me was blowing his nose - not into a tissue - but into the open air. What little bit ended up on his hand, he wiped onto a passing tree. Disgusted, I jumped down into the bicycle lane and sped up ahead of him, so I wouldn't have to watch that display any longer. The Chinese have a philosophy of getting the bad bodily fluids out, which is perfectly medically sound. That's the fastest way to better your health as quickly as possible. But a tissue maybe?

Everything from 'no spitting' (especially not indoors) to 'ladies first' - the history of ettiquette is just non-existent. Which is why it becomes so difficult for Westerners to come here expecting the same treatment and behavior as in the States, only to wind up confused and dissatisfied instead. The non-existence of official ettiquette rules is also why the Chinese don't understand Westerners' reactions. Even now, I'm still thrown for a loop when I have considerable trouble with a store or hotel in China. I mutter to myself, "where is their customer service? No company in the States would EVER do that, they'd lose money." But the Chinese, more generally, don't think that way. Despite my awareness of this fact, I still wonder why my money, my business isn't important enough - especially at a time when business in China is trying to surmount so many obstacles.

In the West, we expect manners to trump one's baser instincts. We expect customer service to trump inconvenience. I think it's a much longer road to global cultural integration than either the Chinese or the Western nations think. Cultural history just cannot be denied.

posted by Rachel @ 9:58 AM

There Is No Joy In Mudville

Well, Atlanta actually. I only get to watch football via online update and waking up to: "Upstart Wake Forest Defeats Georgia Tech To Win ACC Title" made it not such a good morning. Such potential. Maybe next year, boys...

posted by Rachel @ 9:27 AM

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THE WILD WILD EAST: Everything you never knew you didn't know about life on the other side.

In China, the people are represented by two separate, yet equally important groups. The Chinese, who call this land "home," and the expats who migrate here. My name is Rachel. I am an expat. These are my stories.

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